Friday, March 9, 2012

This is an "Indigo" which is exist on your denim after at least 8 months of usage

Indigo dye is an organic compound with a distinctive blue color. Historically, indigo was a natural dye extracted from plants, and this process was important economically because blue dyes were once rare. Nearly all indigo dye produced today several thousand tons each year is synthetic. It is the blue of blue jeans.
USES



Natural indigo

Plant sources.A variety of plants have provided indigo throughout history, but most natural indigo was obtained from those in the genus Indigofera, which are native to the tropics. The primary commercial indigo species in Asia was true indigo (Indigofera tinctoria, also known as Indigofera sumatrana). A common alternative used in the relatively colder subtropical locations such as Japan's Ryukyu Islands and Taiwan is Strobilanthes cusia . In Central and South America the two species Indigofera suffruticosa ) and Indigofera arrecta (Natal indigo) were the most important. In temperate climates indigo can also be obtained from woad (Isatis tinctoria) and dyer's knotweed (Polygonum tinctorum), although the Indigofera species yield more dye.


Extraction

The precursor to indigo is indican, a colorless, water-soluble derivative of the amino acid tryptophan. Indican readily hydrolyzes to release D-glucose and indoxyl.Oxidation by exposure to air converts indoxyl to indigo. Indican was obtained from the processing of the plant's leaves, which contain as much as 0.2 – 0.8 % of this compound. The leaves were soaked in water and fermented in order to convert the glycoside indican present in the plant to the blue dye indigotin. The precipitate from the fermented leaf solution was mixed with a strong base such as lye, pressed into cakes, dried, and powdered. The powder was then mixed with various other substances to produce different shades of blue and purple.


Cultivation

The demand for indigo in the 19th century is indicated by the fact that in 1897, 7000 square kilometers were dedicated to the cultivation of indican-producing plants, mainly in India. By comparison, the country of Luxembourg consists of 2,586 square kilometers.
In literature, the play Nildarpan by Dinabandhu Mitra is based on the indigo slavery and forceful cultivation of indigo in India. It played an essential part in the Bengali indigo revolt of 1858 called Nilbidraha.

Direct printing

Two different methods for the direct application of indigo were developed in England in the 18th century and remained in use well into the 19th century. The first method, known as pencil blue because it was most often applied by pencil or brush, could be used to achieve dark hues. Arsenic trisulfide and a thickener were added to the indigo vat. The arsenic compound delayed the oxidation of the indigo long enough to paint the dye onto fabrics.

Pot of freeze-dried indigo dye
The second method was known as china blue due to its resemblance to Chinese blue-and-white porcelain. Instead of using an indigo solution directly, the process involved printing the insoluble form of indigo onto the fabric. The indigo was then reduced in a sequence of baths of iron sulfate, with air-oxidation between each immersion. The china blue process could make sharp designs, but it could not produce the dark hues possible with the pencil blue method.
Around 1880 the glucose process was developed. It finally enabled the direct printing of indigo onto fabric and could produce inexpensive dark indigo prints unattainable with the china blue method.
Since 2004 freeze-dried indigo, or instant indigo, has become available. In this method the indigo has already been reduced, and then freeze-dried into a crystal. The crystals are added to warm water to create the dye pot. As in a standard indigo dye pot, care has to be taken to avoid mixing in oxygen. Freeze-dried indigo is simple to use, and the crystals can be stored indefinitely as long as they are not exposed to moisture.

Wednesday, February 29, 2012

Denim Care Guide


COOL TIPS FOR RAW DENIM CARE

Raw denim can confuse and scare some people, but what you are actually dealing with is denim in its purest form.

To first cover the basics, raw denim is denim that has not been washed after the indigo dying process, which means that over time the indigo colour will fade in any areas where the denim is regularly creased or rubbed. This natural fading creates unique patterns of wear that will become your individual denim fingerprint over time.

WATCH OUT FOR SHRINKAGE

You've just picked up your brand new pair of raw denim jeans and your first reaction is to wear them out of the store, right? Hang tight! You need to check if your new pair of jeans has been pre-shrunk (or sanforized) during the manufacturing process.

If your raw denim is unsanforized (i.e. not pre-shrunk), it will shrink drastically – approximately 2" in length*and waist – after its first wash.


You could imagine how annoyed you'd be if, after months of wear, you give your denim a complete, proper wash (more on this later), and your hard-earned fades have shifted 2" higher!

So, if your denim is unsanforized you need to give them a post-purchase, pre-wear soak, following these simple steps:



  1.  Fill your bathtub with 2-3 inches of hot, but not scolding, water. Bear in mind that the hotter the water, the more indigo will be lost.
    Optional: to optimize the post-soak fit you can sit in the bathtub wearing your denim.
  2. Flip your raw denim inside out and lay them flat in the tub for 1-2 hours, with something heavy-ish resting on top of them to keep them submerged. Do not try to shake or move your denim too much, otherwise you will risk losing more indigo.
  3. Remove your jeans from the water and hang them out to dry, up-side down. This also helps reduce the shrinkage.



WASH WITH CARE

Once you've determined if your raw denim needs a pre-wear soak you're ready to go

Unsurprisingly, aside from the stiff, rigid material, the toughest thing people find with raw denim for most is wearing them a lot and washing them very little.

The reality though is that the longer and harder denim is worn (some denim heads even sleep in them), the faster you will create those personalized, vivid fades.

We suggest that an optimal amount of time before washing is six months, but wearing them for longer won't have any detrimental effects, whereas washing prematurely will not give you enough time to achieve those strong, contrasting creases.

When washing time does come around, follow these steps:
  1. Draw a bathtub of cool to lukewarm water, about 3-4 inches deep.
  2. Mix in a small amount of very light washing powder, preferably something specially designed to lock in darker colours, like Woolite Black. Don't use bleaches or regular laundry detergent
  3. Lay your raw denim inside out and flat in the bathtub and submerge them in the water by placing heavy object on top.
  4. Leave to soak for 45 minutes
  5. Rinse with cool water to remove the detergent
  6. Remove the water and hang dry up-side down, ideally outdoor and in the sun.
KEEP THEM FRESH

As you'll be wearing your raw denim on a daily basis and not washing them for six months, you will undoubtedly run into minor hygiene problems. Whether it is a spillage or a funky smell, these "incidents" often become too prominent to ignore.
Here are some handy tips on how to resolve some of the most common problems: blood stains, smells, and chewing gum.


BLOOD

Sometimes blood isn't noticeable on dark denim, but if you want it gone here is how:


  1. Lay jeans flat and isolate blood-stained area.
  2. Draw cold water (as cold as possible) and soak a cloth. Cold water is optimal for protein-based stains like blood, so it is vital you do not use warm or hot water.
  3. Dab (don't scrub) the stained area until as much blood as possible is removed
  4. If denim is still stained, apply tiny amount of soap or use a stain remover pen
  5. Dab again with cold, wet cloth.
CHEWING GUM

This can be a real nightmare and should be dealt with ASAP:


  1. Pick off as much gum as you can.
  2. Wrap an ice cube in cloth.
  3. Rub the affected area and soon the frozen gum residue will simply fall off.
  4. If some persistent gum won't shift, use a toothpick or butter knife to pick it off.

ODOUR 
Bacteria thrives in humid environments, so if your denim gets damp it is likely to acquire an unpleasant odor. Here is how to remove it:


  1. Lay your jeans flat, brush them off and empty the pockets.
  2. Fold carefully and compactly place jeans into plastic bag.
  3. Place them in the freezer.
  4. Leave for several hours to kill the bacterial.
  5. Remove from the freezer and enjoy your fresh-smelling jeans
HANGIN' OUT


it's also important to be mindful of your denim when you're not wearing them. Are you the type to toss your clothes on the ground? The risk is that if you don't store your raw denim properly, you will muddle or lose the wear patterns you have made (I've learned this the hard way), damage the fabric, and potentially creating an ideal breeding-ground for odor-causing bacteria.


Hanging your denim solves these problems and lets them air out when they're not being worn. Make use of the belt loops if you're running short of hangers.

If you follow these five tips you and your raw denim should have a long and happy relationship with each other. Like with any good girlfriend, raw denim requires a fair bit of maintenance, care, and attention, but in the end they're well worth the hassle.



Wednesday, February 8, 2012

Smoking killer

Cigarette smokers are said to have chance of getting various fatal diseases. But I think that other people’s tobacco smoke seems to increase the chances of non-smokers getting a wide range of cancers.

First , although passive smokers inhale less tobacco smoke, the researchers point out that the smoke they breathe in is richer in many toxic chemicals. There is an example, three times as much as benzo-apyrene, six times as much loluene and more than 50 times as much dimenthyl nitrosamine. Of course these substances will harm our body in the long run.

Second , the recent research reported that the risk of getting cancers not normally associated with smoking also rose among passive smokers. The risk of leukaemia rose 6 – 8 times and the risk of cervical cancer increased 3 – 4 times.

Third , past studies have found that by product of cigarette smoke such as coinine and thiocynate, turn up in the blood, urine and saliva of non –smoking adults, children and fetuses that have been exposed to smokers. These substances are the main causes of various cancers.

In short , the effects of exposure to the cigarette smoking of others are greater than has been previously suspected. That is why passive smokers have more chances of contracting cancer than people with no such expose.

Wednesday, February 1, 2012

How To Rock A Denim Dress



Style blogger Flávia from Criciúma, Brazil shows us how a denim dress doesn’t have to be prom queen cheesy or Diesel Island sexy—there is a happy medium! Here she rocks a Damyller denim dress with atiered skirt and fringe edges with Gabriela Faraco accessories. Two great Brazilian brands and one Brazilian babe? We’re all over it! But she’s not just cute, she knows her stuff! She works heavy, powerfulmetallic accessories into the look so that her aesthetic is balanced with the weight of the denim garment, but still spunky enough to throw off the whole tiered-dress-frilly-factor. Bottom line? If you wear a denim dress, go bold all the way! A slinky silver chain just wouldn’t cut it in this outfit.
denim dress metallic accessories



How To Remove Odors From Your Vintage Denim (Or Vintage Anything, Actually)!



We all love shopping vintage. There are few things closer to actually treasure hunting than picking through the selections at your favorite second hand & vintage store. But truth be told, sometimes the history behind your new favorite denim skirt or chambray dress comes through in more ways than one. We’re talking about odor. Want to zap the unpleasant aroma ASAP? Follow this tip we found on Glamour:
Janie Bryant, Mad Men costume designer, says “All you have to do is mix one part vodka with two parts water in a spray bottle. It works every time—that’s the power of vodka for you.”
vodka-odor-removal-denim



Cropped Boyfriend Jeans Are Your Go-To Denim This Fall



Vogue accessory editor Sylvana Soto-Ward ways, “Cropped-and-pegged jeans are perfect for showing off a strong pair of sandals or cute flats, they also look swell with a winter-friendly ankle boot.” (via Who What Wear)
Check out three of our favorite boyfriend jeans of the moment below:boyfriend-jeans-tip
1. DENIM & SUPPLY Ralph Lauren Ripped Boyfriend Jeans ($200) – buy it at Harrods.
2. AG Jeans The Ex-Boyfriend Crop 28 Years Destroyed ($245) – buy it at AG Jeans.
3. Current/Elliott The Boyfriend High-Rise Jeans ($81) – buy it at The Outnet.



Exposed Denim Workshirt Collar As An Accent



Today’s denim tip is all about style: the exposed denim collar, worn under a layered pop-color top. Check out style blogger Hanna’s bold-but-simple outfit combo. Even though the focal point of this outfit is primarily the hot pink top, the collar peeking out at the neckline becomes as important as a statement accessory. After this formula is executed, you just need a sleek pair of skinnies and some chic flats or lace-up boots to bring it all together. Try it out this week!
denim-workshirt-collar-hot-pink

How To Incorporate Distressed Denim Into Your Fall Wardrobe



gilt-manual-fall-trends-distressed-denim-jacket-fedora




What To Wear With A Light Jean Jacket



As it is beginning to get colder out, it can be hard to find the right thing to wear to keep warm, but not toowarm. Thankfully, jean jackets are just the thing to get the job done, and (bonus!) look great while doing it. Wondering what goes with a jean jacket? Lucky for you, the guys over at Gilt MANual have laid it out for us plain and simple!
denim-tip-light-denim-jacket-blue-button-down-beige-chinos
What are the options to match with a light denim jacket?
Sunglasses. A white T-shirt. A white button-down. A white button-down with a tie. A blue button-down. A blue button-down with a tie. A pink button down… but probably not with a tie. A corduroy shirt. A flannel. Chinos. Of any color. Well, maybe except bright red. Cargo pants. Dark denim jeans. Light denim jeans. Cords. Cutoffs. A vintage watch.