Tuesday, November 15, 2011

Guide to Dry & Raw Denim

raw denim article picture by galliart Guide to Dry & Raw Denim
My best friend Kate is huge Dry Denim enthusiast. “Why would I want to buy jeans that are made to look like I already wore them? I just don’t get it,” she says, “What I do, is buy raw denim and, at first, they may be awful, but then I sit in my bathtub wearing them, and soak in them…and then I wear them til they’re practically dry on me…Oh my gosh! It is toruture! But totally worth it…” she squeals… “Then, I wear them constantly, do crazy things like lunges in them, jump around in them, maybe even work out in them, dance around the house in them, and of course, I never wash them…Then they behave. Then it’s not as if it looks like I broke them in…because, I actually did! The best part is when they get all of the creases in them…around the backs of my knees and on my legs…and they are my creases. Man, I wish they were more of a girl thing though…it’s so hard to find great women’s dry jeans.  Love my Levi’s though!”
new jeans raw soaked Guide to Dry & Raw Denim
Brand New Raw Denim After their First Soak in the Tub!
I can remember one week last year when Kate came to visit me. She had the most amazing pair of Levi’s on. When I say amazing, I mean really amazing. They were the kind of jeans that look like you had to lay down to get them on, but really, she didn’t have to do that at all. She just glided right into them. They were straight leg and just slightly high waisted…but nothing too trendy. And as she had mentioned in her previous dissertation on broken in dry denim, they were faded everywhere, just right to her body.  What was the secret? They were dry denim of course.

So What is Dry Denim?

So, maybe many of you already know about Dry Denim, or, as it is sometimes called, “Raw” Denim. Dry Denim is, in fact, developing a cult following these days with huge fan forum’s and websites out there.  Like my best friend, there are many people who agree, that a natural fit and fade to one’s own body, is preferable to a fade that is made to order. There are companies out there that are specifically devoted to Dry Denim and guys and girls alike who refuse to buy anything else.  Finding Dry denim for women, however, I do have to agree is typically more challenging, and much of the women’s dry denim is…well…watered down a bit…but…let’s get down to basics first…
Characterized by its unaffected state, Dry Denim relies on the denim and the wearer themselves to get the material and color to that cozy and, if you will, sometimes destroyed stage that we love so much. Denim is an American Favorite for many reasons. The main basis, I would venture to say, is it’s comfort factor. No matter what style we make a jean (skinny, wide, boot, boyfriend, straight, etc), they still remain pretty comfortable. There is pretty much nothing we can do to make denim uncomfortable (ok, there are times when we wear it too tight and yes, that crosses the line!). But, as a whole, denim’s ability to soften up and adhere to your particular body, creating, at times, an almost cashmere feel, is what has made the industry impenetrable and the look iconic (understatement). The difference between Dry Denim and the majority of our designer denim favorites today is that the makers of dry denim are leaving it completely up to the denim and you to do the softening and wearing….they are taking themselves out of the equation. Way to trust the jeans!
So, although it certainly is not the quickest way to an A+ fit, it seems to be the most authentic these days.

Pictures of Dry Denim


dry nudie unwashed Guide to Dry & Raw Denim
Nudie Dry Denim -Bran New & Unwashed
levis 1 months heavy Guide to Dry & Raw Denim
Levi's 501s after no washing and 1 month of everyday wear
dry gstar midge 7 months Guide to Dry & Raw Denim
GStar Raw Midge after 7 Months of Wear and no washes yet!
ald 1year no wash Guide to Dry & Raw Denim
ALD Denim with 1 year of Heavy Wear and NO WASHES!

Mens Styles of Dry Denim


men raw one Guide to Dry & Raw Denim
From Left: COH Perfect Selvage Bootcut; Gilded Age Wilson Pant Selvage Raw
men raw two Guide to Dry & Raw Denim
From Left: Helmut Lang Raw S2; Nudie Slim Jim Dry Broken Twill
men raw three Guide to Dry & Raw Denim
From Left: Kicking Mule Workshop 1950 Classic Raw & 2010 Straight Raw

Womens Styles of Dry Denim


women raw one Guide to Dry & Raw Denim
From Left: Earnest Sewn Harlan Cigarette One Rinse; Nudie Slim Kim Organic Dry Ecru
women raw two Guide to Dry & Raw Denim
From Left: G-Star Raw 110; Cheap Monday Tight & Cheap Unwashed
women raw three Guide to Dry & Raw Denim
From Left: Level 99 Kate Dry; ACNE Hex Dry DC Jeans


Frequently Asked Questions


WHAT IS THE TECHNICAL DEFINITION OF DRY DENIM?
Dry or Raw denim is denim fabric that is not washed during the production phase, after the color treatment process.Unlike most denim, the makers of Dry or Raw Denim allow this process to happen in a natural aging cycle of the denim fabric itself, instead of speeding it up to creating a “desirable” purchase look.
WHY WOULD I WANT TO BUY DRY DENIM?
Most people who are dry denim enthusiasts feel that these jeans are truly a pair of jeans that are going to be fit and worn to your specific body. Because Dry Denim is not going to have wear to it when you first receive them, the denim will then only be affected by your daily life, by your activities, by your unique set of experiences, making each mark, line and even tear, authentic to not only the brand, but to you.
WHY DO MOST DENIM MAKERS WASH DENIM TO BEGIN WITH THEN?
Washing denim after the dye process creates a few typical appearances such as “softening” “distressing” “creasing” “whiskering” “fading” etc.. Concurrently, washing denim after the dye process can also prevent some certain negative affects such shrinkage, although not usually to an ideal, as we all can attest I’m certain! While dry denim is definitely going to be more exclusive to you than a pair of pre-distressed jeans, they don’t necessarily get that way over night. So, be prepared to wear them, and wear them hard! Most Dry Denim enthusiasts will not wash their jeans for 6 months or even longer…!
I’VE HEARD OF SELVAGE DENIM… WHAT IS THAT? AND WHY IT IS UNCOMMON?
Selvage is from the term “self-edge” and has more to do with the inside roll or “edge” on a pair of jeans than the actual denim itself. However, you’re certainly most likely to find selvage in a pair of dry denim jeans…although they are mutually exclusive. A selvage edge, or roll, is usually done running along the edge of the denim’s outseam.Yet, it is only selvage when the seaming is done in a certain and very meticulous way.
Have you ever noticed that when some jeans are cuffed up, the seaming looks extremely finishes and clean—like the edge was made look visible? As if the seam could never come undone? Well, if you’ve seen that, then you were probably looking at selvage denim. This is an extremely high quality finish from an old school “shuttle loom”.Unfortunately though, not all of today’s denim is made on a shuttle loom—in fact, most is not. Using a shuttle loom to create denim in today’s world is a very costly (not to mention lengthy) process. And, although the finished result is a tighter and superior quality weave, most companies began to use a different method called the “projectile loom” back in the ‘50’s to save material and labor cost. Consequently, not too many selvage options at your local malls….
Here’s some pictures of Selvage…
psredearselvage Guide to Dry & Raw Denim
Selvage Denim from Paul Smith,
selvage sugarcane Guide to Dry & Raw Denim
Selvage Denim from Sugarcane
coh riley selvage digger 238 Guide to Dry & Raw Denim
Citizens of Humanity Riley Selvage in Digger
OK, ENOUGH OF THE SELVAGE…I GET IT!  ONTO THE OTHER “S”…WHAT IS SANFORIZING ?????
That one’s pretty easy! Think of sanforizing as a dry denim maker’s way to preshrink your denim material without ever effecting the way it will be colored or faded. Pretty great. Not every pair of dry jeans is sanforized though…that’s where soaking comes into play…
YES…YOU DID MENTION SOAKING IN THE BEGINNING. AM I REALLY SUPPOSED TO SIT IN THE BATH IN MY JEANS?
Yes. And no. This is a pretty controversial method. Not everyone recommends it. And, in fact, some people are vehemently against it! Soaking denim while you are wearing the denim (ie in the tub) is usually recommended by jeans that have not been sanforized (remember—that means they haven’t shrunk yet). By doing this, the denim is going to shrink right to your body and yet, it will not shrink past your body. That’s why people recommend actually wearing them while you’re soaking. Use warm water, as this will allow the fabric fibers to really expand…and then…as they dry, contract, creating that shrink and fit that you’re looking for. The soaking process also helps to break jeans in a little more quickly and fade the denim fast. Please, just don’t forget, if your denim is sanforized, your purchase is true-to-size, and this process is not for you! You’ll definitely want to preserve that cut and might make the jeans too small!
If you’re not like my friend Kate and you’re not into running around in wet denim, your best bet is to fill your pants up with heavy wide items that you don’t mind ruining, like some big ol’ textbooks. Some people recommend inside out-ting your denim, others say no…as you may be gathering at this point, the soaking and washing practices have garnered more than a few opinions
I HAVE MY JEANS PERFECT NOW! BUT THEY STINK! HOW DO I WASH THEM?
The standard dry denim wash recommendation is six months. Washing dry denim too soon won’t ruin your denim, however, it will ruin your faded pattern. It will take your jeans from whiskered and destroyed to a bit more evenly colored. This long-time-no-wash-standard is one of the reasons that dry denim is not for everyone.
Lorna’s note – What does count though is how much you wear these jeans, washing is not too important unless you have a brand like Nudie where the color will fade extremely fast, you just have to make sure that you wear them as much as possible to ensure you are getting those creases and fades you desire. It is best to wait as long as possible before your first wash though as the starchiness to the denim will go away once it’s washed and then it does make it harder for the creases to set in. I own 2 raw jeans myself, Sling & Stones and Good Society and they are very hard to break in but it’s definitely worth it. I also put together a post where you can see other forum members raw denim after it’s been worn and washed. 
Regardless of when you wash however, the method is pretty much the same: Wash Alone, Wash Cold, Wash Inside Out, Wash Using Gentle Non-Bleach detergents, and Last, but not least, whether washing or soaking, make sure you line dry those puppies!

How to Shrink Denim

Finding the right fit in a pair of jeans is next to impossible -- if they aren't too tight, they have an extra inch of material keeping them from hugging your form just so. Luckily, it's a lot easier to shrink that extra inch of denim material than it is to shrink that extra inch on your waist or thighs. You can shrink your denim into the right fit in the privacy of your own home with a few simple steps.

Instructions

    • 1
      Place your article of denim clothing in the washing machine and fill the machine with the appropriately measured amount of detergent.
    • 2
      Send your denim through a wash cycle on the highest heat setting your washing machine offers.
    • 3
      Place your denim clothing in the dryer and send it through a cycle on the highest heat setting your dryer offers.

Tips & Warnings

  • The Style Forum web site suggests skipping the wash cycle and instead recommends soaking your denim, turning it inside out and tossing it in the dryer for a cycle with a fabric softener sheet.
  • Be sure to do one wash and/or dryer cycle at a time and try on your denim clothing after each one to avoid excessive shrinkage.


How to Shrink Dry Denim to Fit

Many jean wearers prefer their jeans to have a tight fit when worn. Although jeans can be purchased in slim sizes that will fit the wearer tightly, slim-cut jeans use a generic tight cut, as opposed to shrink-to-fit jeans, which specifically shrink to match the shape of the wearer's legs. With shrink-to-fit jeans, the new denim is given a bath in hot water which causes it to expand slightly, allowing the jeans to then shrink dry, with the fibers getting smaller and molding to the form of the wearer as they cool off and dry.



Instructions


      • 1
        Fill the tub with hot water. You can use a wash tub or a bath tub; however, it is possible for some styles of jeans to leave a ring in a bath tub after shrinking.
      • 2
        Place the jeans into the hot water and pin them underwater with heavy objects.
      • 3
        Boil water in large pots during the process, adding the water to the tub as it reaches a boil. This will keep the water hot, countering the room's cooling effect.
      • 4
        Remove the jeans from the water after an hour and leave them to dry. As the jeans dry, they will shrink down from the initial size.
      • 5
        Leave the jeans to sit for 1 hour, then put them on for 30 minutes.
      • 6
        Remove the jeans and hang them back up until they are nearly dry.
      • 7
        Wear the jeans until they have completely dried.



    How to dry jeans?

    After washing a pair of blue jeans, it is necessary to dry them. However, if you just take them out of the washer and throw them into the dryer, your blue jeans will shrink, and it will be even harder to get into them. Here are some steps explaining the right way to dry blue jeans.

    Instructions

      • 1
        Wash the jeans in the washing machine using your favorite detergent.
      • 2
        Place the blue jeans in the dryer on high for about 10 minutes only.
      • 3
        Hang them on a line outside to dry in the warm sun.
      • 4
        Use the drying machine on low if you are not able to hang the jeans outside to dry in the sun.
      • 5
        Lay the wet jeans over a rack and allow them to air-dry overnight. This is another way to dry jeans if you do not want to dry them in the dryer.
      • 6
        Take your jeans to the dry cleaner for washing and drying.

    Tips & Warnings

    • Wear your jeans two or three times before washing them. If they do not have any visible dirt on them and don't stink, they should be okay to wear. Rewearing your jeans helps save water.
    • Wash jeans together. Do not wash them with other clothes or with towels.
    • Drying jeans on high in the dryer will cause them to shrink. Dry them on low if you must use a dryer.
    • Make sure to clean out the lint trap after each drying cycle. Failure to clean the lint trap will cause the machine to malfunction and not properly dry your clothes.